In the northern part of India’s Bengal province, high in the Himalayas, near the Nepalese border, is Darjeeling, the tea-growing capital of the world. Darjeeling was once one of the more famous hill stations (summer retreats) for the British colonials.
As with much of the subcontinent, June-July is the height of the monsoon, and therefore is NOT the time to be here. So here we are.
An 8-12 hour train ride north from Calcutta gets you to Jalpaguri, the jumping off point for Darjeeling. From there, it’s a 3-4 hour ride by 4×4 of some of the most picturesque switchback mountain roads in the world. The distance is 25 miles as the crow flies, 42 miles by road, over which you climb 6,500 feet. That’s the same vertical climb as between say the Mississippi River and Denver, meaning the British wore out a lot of good horses (or, more likely, sedan chair porters) getting up here.
The road is about 1.5 lanes wide and shrouded in fog. Landcruisers race up and down taking corners on two wheels, with the side view mirrors tucked in because of the small clearances, dodging lorries laden with 40,000 pounds of tea. In both the aviation sense and the literal sense the visibility here is zero.
Given the width of the road, I had visions of having my head knocked off if I stuck it out, just like the family dog in the old SNL Jack Handy Fuzzy Memories clip. And so I resolved to keep my hands and feet inside the vehicle at all times. Our driver was the most aggressive of all and had no such compunction, so spent most of the time with his entire torso out the window of the car yelling at other drivers. I should mention that he bore the scars of one having his left orbital collapsed, meaning that he was not be toyed with, or possibly that he was. I opted to take no chances and left him alone to rant and rave.
There are no other driving rules, but apparently you aren’t allowed to blow the horn on your pantechnicon.
The Peregrinating Mister Beck 
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